The Thames Path by Leigh Hatts

I sometimes mention Vincent Van Gogh teaching at Isleworth although this was only for  a short time.

The Real Van Gogh exhibition opening at the Royal Academy of Arts on Saturday reminds us that the artist knew the river downstream at Lambeth and Westminster much better.

On display is a letter written in Paris in 1875 where he writes: “I crossed Westminster Bridge every morning and evening and know what it looks like when the sun’s setting behind Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament, and what it’s like early in the morning, and in winter with snow and fog.”

He was recalling the previous year when he had spent twelve menths crossing the bridge daily on his way to work at an art dealer in Southampton Street off the Strand.

Van Gogh was living at first in Brixton and then in Kennington Road from where it was a short walk up Westminster Bridge Road.

In 1876 he was back in England teaching at Isleworth for a few months. In November he preached at Petersham Methodist Church which he sketched.

The exhibition’s full title is The Real Van Gogh: The Artist and His Letters so there are none of his English paintings as these do not feature in his letters. But this is a major show. I have never seen so many people at an RA press view.

There was even a media frenzy around his self portrait when members of the Van Gogh family appeared.

The souvenir shop is fun with mugs, bags, fridge magnets, trays and Oyster card wallets.

The exhibition runs daily from Saturday 23 January to Sunday 18 April.

Since Sunday there has been at least one seal in St Saviour’s Dock next to Butler’s Wharf.

Updates are appearing on the London SE1 website which has a picture.

See page 27.

Good news this week for lock keepers on the Thames which is good news for all of us who care about the river.

Over twenty lock keepers and their families will keep their riverside accommodation thanks to a deal negotiated by UNISON. Last May the Environment Agency had planned to sell the cottages.

“Having lock keepers living close to the water also means they can be first line of defence in case of flooding” says UNISON regional organiser Jeanette Roe.

“For the lock and weir keepers and their families, this is the news they have been waiting for.

“They have been on tenterhooks, facing the prospect of uprooting their families from homes they have lived in for up to thirty years. Now they can start the New Year knowing they can stay in their homes.

“The deal also gives lock and weir keepers improved job profiles and formal arrangements for their standby and call out duties.”

The plan to let the cottages as holiday homes was opposed by many including Reading MP and keen angler Martin Salter.

Information to Editors:

I am sorry that the new owner of Swinford Bridge wants to remain anonymous.

I have never objected to the owner being allowed to avoid tax as upkeep of an 18th-century structure can be expensive and the obligation to provide a ferry if the bridge becomes unsafe would also be costly.

The mystery buyer paid £1.08m. Cars and lorries pay 5p so the annual income from the crossing is about £190,000. Before decimalisation cars used to be charged 5d which was based on five wheels including a spare one on the back of early cars.

The 1797 Swinford Bridge Act allowed Lord Abingdon to build the bridge and collect tolls tax free. This was thought to be an improvement on a ferry and an unreliable ford. The Talbot pub on the left bank opened a few years later in 1774.

Swinford Bridge , which has a lovely balustrade, only passed out of the Abingdon family in 1979.

See page 178.

An engraved paving stone has been laid in the pavement outside 54 Festing Road in Putney where David McKee created the Mr Benn cartoon series.

David, who now lives in France, called the street Festive Road and has Mr Benn living next door at number 52.

Festing Road is the last turning off Putney’s Embankment before the Thames Path crosses Beverley Brook.

See page 49.

Candida Lycett Green takes a look at Inglesham Church as part of her ‘Unwrecked England’ series in Christmas issue of The Oldie.

The writer, who is the daughter of John Betjeman, recalls joining her parents rowing up from Lechlade past the Roundhouse and landing at the farm behind the church. This is the same stretch enjoyed by an earlier poet Percy Shelley.

Her description and appreciation of the river and church is a delight.

See pages 196-197.

Last August I wrote about the pleasure of lunching at the Surrey Docks Farm cafe. Now it’s closed.

The cafe is shut “until after Christmas” I am told by farm manager Kath. There are not enough winter visitors.

But it’s worth calling in on Sunday 13 December for the Christmas Fair when the cafe will be open.

See page 21.

Eel Pie Island is a mystery to most of us.

It hides Twickenham from the walker on the towpath but most of us are not sure what happens on the only inhabited island in the tidal Thames. There are myths about what used to happen.

Today it is best known as a former pop concert venue which suffered several serious fires. Only last September there was yet another when Min-y-Don, home of architect Clive Chapman, was burnt down.

A new book Eel Pie Island (Frances Lincoln; £16.99) records all known facts about the island. The main author is former Times foreign correspondent Dan van der Vat who has lived on the island for thirty years.

He insists that the 550 yard long island is in Middlesex and not Surrey, reveals that it once belonged to the nuns at Syon, examines claims about Henry VIII calling in for eel pies and explodes other such myths. He records the dates of the fires and access changes from chain barge ferry to toll bridge to new bridge.

The second author is Michele Whitby who holds a unique collection of documents, programmes and tickets from famous concerts.

She records what really went on at those pop concerts when the performers included Acker Bilk, Long John Baldry and the Rolling Stones. She also explains the role of Michael Snapper, last owner of the hotel, and generous concert promotor Arthur Chisnall.

There is the best map I have ever seen of the island and beautiful photography alongside historic photographs.

So what is it like to live on Eel Pie Island today? Its famous resident Trevor Baylis says it is just “120 drunks clinging to a mudbank”.

After reading this book you will want to live there too. It’s a delightful and  important contribution to the Thames history.

Today MV Havengore which carried Winston Churchill’s body upstream after his funeral was back on the Thames.

The vessel by chance retraced the same route as it sailed from its mooring at St Katharine’s Dock to anchor outside the Palace of Westminster where a short service took place prior to the two minute silence.

The London SE1 website has a report.

The situation at Surrey Docks Farm near Rotherhithe, downstream from Tower Bridge, has always been rather confused. There are not many public footpaths in the capital and the towpath does not exist here.

A planning application for path improvements at the farm makes it clear that the Thames Path route will be open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm. The path will only be open daytime on Mondays when funds allow for separating the path completely from the farm.

Regrettably there has been an arson attack at night which caused huge and still unresolved problems.

There is an alternative route for Mondays and summer evenings. The farm remains a good place to stop off for lunchtime refreshment.

See page 21.