The Thames here is unspoilt but can also be lonely. As recently as the 1980s the towpath between Tenfoot Bridge and Tadpole was impenetrable. The approach to Lechlade is past William Morris’s Kelmscott Manor where Compton Mackenzie wrote “on this stile Swinburne may have sat; there Burne-Jones may have looked back at the sky; and …Rosetti tied up his shoe…”. Booking accommodation ahead is again advised although at Lechlade there is more choice.
Newbridge: The Rose Revived, OX29 7QD. (01865 300221). Bar food 12-6pm. Children welcome. No smoking.
Newbridge: The Maybush. Tue-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Food 12-2.30pm & 6.30pm-9pm; sandwiches Tue-Sat 12-5pm.
Tadpole: The Trout Inn. Real ale, bar snacks. Children welcome. Open 11am-11pm in summer. Closed 3-5.30pm winter weekdays. (Sun 12-10.30pm.)
Radcot: The Swan, Food 8am-9pm. Children welcome. Log fire in winter.
Kelmscott: The Plough. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm & 6-11pm; weekends open all day. Children welcome.
Kelmscott: Tearoom. At start of village between river and manor. Summer (Apr to Oct) Wed & Sat 10.30am-5pm.
St John’s Bridge: The Trout. Soup, local sausages & vegetarian dishes. Children welcome. Open 11am-3pm (food 12-2pm); 6-11pm (food 7-10pm) & all day summer Sats. (Sun 12-3pm & 7-10.30pm)
Newbridge: The Rose Revived, OX29 7QD. (01865 300221). No smoking.
Radcot: The Swan, OX18 25X (01367 810220). Apr-Oct.
Kelmscot: The Plough, GL7 3HG (01367 253543). 17th-century inn.
Kemscot: Manor Farm, GL7 3HF (01367 252620).
Newbridge: National Rail to Oxford then Bus X3 (Oxford Bus Company 01865 785400) to Abingdon for bus X15 (Thames Travel 01491 837988).
Lechlade: Bus 64 & 74 (Stagecoach) to Swindon then National Rail.