In the early 20th century there were people who could remember the Thames being open for barges as far as Waterhay Bridge due to the riverbed having being dragged by horses in a dry summer. This final section involves a diversion around lakes in the Cotswold Water Park before Waterhay is reached. Here the river changes dramatically in size and scenery for the final few miles. The Source is a lonely spot but there is a handy station nearby.
Cricklade: Cricklade Cafe, High Street (opposite White Hart); 8am-6pm (Sat 8am-4pm; Sun 10am-2,30pm).
Cricklade: The Red Lion, High Street. Mon-Sat 12–11pm; Sun 12–10.30pm.
Cricklade: The White Hart Hotel, High Street. Food 12-2.30pm & 7-10pm; open all day.
Ashton Keynes: The Horse & Jockey, Gosditch Street. 12-3pm & 5.30-11pm; all day weekends.
Ashton Keynes: The White Hart, High Road. 12-2.30pm & 6-11pm (Sun 7-10.30pm). No food on Monday.
Somerford Keynes: The Baker’s Arms. Food 12-2.45pm & 6-9.45pm; open all day
Ewen: The Wild Duck Inn. Built in 1563. Real Ales. Bar food at lunchtime and evening. 11am-11pm. (Sun 11-10.30pm.)
Kemble: The Tavern Inn (on west side of station). 12-3pm & 6.30-11pm (Sat 7-11pm); all day Sunday.
Cricklade: The Old Bear, High Street SN6 6AP (01793 75005).
Cricklade: The Red Lion, High Street SN6 6DD (01793 750776).
Cricklade: The White Hart Hotel, High Street SN6 6AA (01793 750206).
Cricklade: The White Lion, High Street SN6 6DA (01793 750999).
Waterhay Bridge: Waterhay Farm, Leigh, SN6 6QY (01285 861253). Cross bridge and turn right.
Ashton Keynes: 1 Cove House SN6 6NS, east of The White Hart (01285 861226).
Ashton Keynes: Wheatleys Farm, High Road SN6 6NX, south of The White Hart (01285 861310).
Ewen: The Wild Duck Inn GL7 6BY (01285 770310).
Ewen: Brooklands Farm, GL7 6BU (01285 770487).
Coates (along old canal beyond Source): The Tunnel House GL7 6PW (01285 770280).
Cricklade: National Rail to Swindon then bus 51 (Stagecoach)
Source: National Rail from Kemble.
Cirencester: Corn Hall, Market Place, GL7 2NW (01285 654180).
Swindon: 37 Regent Street, SN1 1JL (01793 530328).
OS Explorer 168 (Stroud) and 169 (Cirencester & Swindon).